If you’ve followed my travel itineraries before, you’ll know I have a knack for exploring diverse destinations, and Mexico City was no exception. Beyond the bustling streets and historic landmarks of the capital, I sought to venture beyond the city limits, discovering hidden gems and cultural treasures throughout the region. From navigating the labyrinthine alleys of Centro Historico to marveling at the ancient pyramids of Teotihuacan, each moment was a testament to Mexico’s rich heritage and vibrant soul. Join me as I recount the highlights, offering insights and recommendations to make your own journey through this dynamic part of the world unforgettable.
Car Rental in Mexico
For our travels we did rent a car, but I do not recommend this and in retrospect, I would not do it again. While it may seem convenient and cheap to rent a car, especially with the public transportation not being particularly great, I would not be tempted. The speed limits are extremely low and change often, and if you exceed them, you will get stopped and extorted.
In our case, the police were looking for USD, which we did not have. The original request was for about $360 USD, or else we would have to stay in Mexico and complete 30 days of community service. I knew this was a lie. But in any case, we ended up shelling out all of the money we had – a total of 1000 pesos and 250 euros. The police were nice though, they gave us back a few pesos for the tolls. Awww.
If you decide to risk it and rent a car, know your rights. If stopped, ask to pay the fine at the station or offer no more than $20 – $50 if necessary. Most of the time, this is where your confrontation will end as the amount of paperwork required will be enough to deter them from bringing you to the station. Also, never let them know you are in a hurry. You are on holiday and you have all the time in the world to pay a speeding fine, which is usually less than $50 anyway. But really, with the amount of tolls, confusing interchanges, terrible traffic, and this annoyance, just take a bus.
But I digress, see below for itinerary suggestions, what to do, where to stay, and where to eat.
Mexico City
Mexico City is HUGE, but if you choose the sites you want to see, it can definitely be manageable. I think the best place to stay is in the Centro Historico where you can easily take a walking tour to see all of the key sites. In fact there is a pedestrian only roadway that will lead you to all of the nearby attractions and offer lots of shopping as you go. A good, centrally located place to stay was the Umbral hotel which is a very cool boutique hotel with a roof top bar, pool, and restaurant.
Here is the route to take to see all the sites and marvel at their construction atop pre-Hispanic Aztec ruins, often using the same “borrowed” materials. Start at Ex Teresa Arte Actual crossing through Zocalo, which is a huge square hosting protesters which are mostly harmless. Continue on to Palacio de Belles Artes and Almeda Central which is a park with several fountains and monuments. By now, you have surely worked up a thirst, so head over to Cantina Tio Pepe for a tequila and beer, browsing the bustling streets of China Town on the way. Hit Mercado San Juan for a snack and pick up any local specialties you need.
Depending on the museums you want to see, I think 2-3 days is enough time to spend in Mexico City. Outside of the Centro Historico, be sure to check out Roma Norte which is akin to the Brooklyn of Mexico City, complete with street art, bars, and posh restaurants like Contramar or a cool food hall with all of the choices at Mercado Roma.
Other places of interest in Mexico City Include:
- Museo Nacional De Antropologia – World’s largest and most comprehensive
- Chapultepec Castle & Polanco
- Coyoacan & Frida Kahlo Museum
- Museo Soumaya
- Xochimilco gondola ride
- Lucha Libre – theatrical wrestling on Tuesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, & Sundays if you’re into that.
Where to Eat:
- El Bajio
- Limosneros – a great option for a fresh take on Mexican food beyond the enchiladas, chilaquiles, and moles!
- Cafe De Tacuba
Teotihuacan Pyramids
About an hour northeast of Mexico City, you will find the largest pyramids in the world at Teotihuacan. While not as old as those in Egypt, the ancient city is spectacular to see. Walk through the Avenue of the Dead and marvel at the sheer beauty and take in the vast 20 square km of ruins, with the largest being the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the moon.
There are several day trips that will take you here from Mexico City and I am kicking myself that I didn’t book one with a hot air balloon ride over the ancient city. Here is one that looks amazing and includes breakfast in a cave at the La Gruta restaurant. This restaurant is also open to the public and is located outside of gate 5 and is surely worth a visit.
Queretaro
About 3 hours north of Mexico city is Queretaro which is definitely worth the trip. Surrounded by a unique geography, it lends itself to being not only the cheese and wine capital of Mexico but also home to the world’s third-largest monolith and turquoise hot springs rivaling those in Iceland.
Stay in the historic old town at Hotel Criol with cobbled streets and plenty of restaurants and nightlife to keep you busy. Try the unique southeast Mexican dishes at Tikua for an authentic taste.
This is also a perfect jumping off point to explore the cheese and wine trail and stopping at the magical towns in the region, including La Pena de Bernal. This tour was fantastic! While entirely in Spanish, there was much to see, taste, and learn. You will start with a tasting of 14 cheeses and 2 wines and continue on to the pink town of Tequisquiapan. Next stop is the Vive Sala vineyard, the current home of the Freixenet wine caves and then on to Bernal where the historic buildings frame La Pena de Bernal for the perfect picture.
Another option for a day trip, albeit a long one, is a trip to Grutas de Tolantongo. It’s a breathtaking turquoise river and hot spring pools set amongst the backdrop of mountains, complete with a waterfall and tunnel. The trip would not have been complete without a local guide stopping for street side tamales for breakfast and a road side Pulque (agave wine) for the ride home.
San Miguel de Allende
The last stop prior to flying out of Queretaro is the current hot spot in Mexico, San Miguel de Allende. While it is a small town, albeit a charming one, there is a big restaurant and nightlife scene along with great shopping to keep you busy. We only stayed one night at the Casa de Sierra Nevada and could have easily spent more time wondering these hilly, cobbled streets. Make sure to check out Tunki, the rooftop bar, rated one of the best in the world, for its cocktails and views. Not bad for a small town!
In Conclusion
In summary, exploring Mexico City and its surrounding areas proved to be an exhilarating journey filled with cultural marvels and culinary delights. Despite our rental car misadventures, the vibrant streets of Centro Historico and the majestic pyramids of Teotihuacan left a lasting impression. Whether wandering through the colorful alleys of Roma Norte or savoring local delicacies at Mercado San Juan, each experience offered a glimpse into Mexico’s rich heritage. From the historic charm of Queretaro to the bohemian allure of San Miguel de Allende, every destination unveiled its own unique story. As you plan your own adventure, consider these highlights and immerse yourself in the vibrant tapestry of Mexico’s diverse landscapes and traditions.
This trip has also inspired me so much that I am cooking up a storm. Try my chilaquiles with shredded chicken, chiles rellenos, enchiladas, and salmon with pepian verde.
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