No trip to Portugal would be complete without visiting the Douro Valley. Even if you are not the biggest fan of port nor a wine drinker, the region itself with breathtaking vistas is worth a visit. And, if you like wine and are interested in learning more about port, this is definitely the place to do it. I find that many people say they don’t like port, but give it a try in the Douro Valley and you might change your mind!
The Douro Valley is a set amongst the historically important Douro river which weaves through the Marao Mountain range. It is just over an hour inland from Porto and about 3.5 hours northeast from Lisboa, making it an easy road trip from either location. Be sure to rent a car and enjoy driving through the windy mountain roads and breathtaking scenery. But be warned, this is not for the faint of heart; the roads are steep and sometimes lack guard rails. I saw this as an amazing adventure and pleasure to drive, but others may have forgotten their driving gloves.
Why Visit?
Aside from the obvious reason; for the wine, the Douro Valley is steeped in rich history. From the arrival of the Celts to the Romans, the Douro River played an important role in linking the coast with the interior. In the 18th century, the Douro region was demarcated as the first regulated wine region with the river becoming the main export route for wines globally.
Now, the terraced vineyards are the largest mountainside vineyards in the world and are a UNESCO world heritage site. The vistas are just stunning with the terraced vines, some nearly vertical, set amongst the stoned quintas (villas) and cellars. The postcard worthy villages, delicious wines and ports, scenic winding roads, and delicious local food and restaurants make the Douro Valley worth your next destination.
Where to Stay
I am not a huge fan of Airbnbs as I prefer a hotel nearly 9 times out of 10. However, the Douro Valley is rural and I think the best place to stay is on a vineyard or a farm stay. There are several options listed on Airbnb, but my recommendation is to look for one with a kitchen as those winding roads can become particularly precarious after dark. We stayed at Quinta da Padrela which was a good location with a nearby town and offered wine at check in and local cheese, honeys, and homemade olive oil for purchase.
When to go and What to do
You might think that the summer would be too warm to visit the Douro Valley, but you would be wrong with that assumption. The elevation of this area keeps the location dry and cool for most of the year. June would be ideal to go but really anytime between April and October will secure you decent weather. Be sure to plan a hike, several tastings, and a wine lunch!
Sample Itinerary
Three or four days should be enough time in the Douro Valley, but honestly, I could stay a week or even longer. I might just move in. Here are my suggestions to make the most of your time:
Day 1
Upon arrival, depending on where you are coming from, this will be good day to chill at your rental villa. Soak up some rays at your pool, stock your house with local olive oil, fruits, nuts and the like. The region not only boasts a harvest of grapes, but second to the wine is olive oil with almonds and orchards not far behind. This would also be a perfect day to do a tasting at the vineyard which you will make your home for the next few days.
Day 2
Time to get out and active. Book a hike with a local guide through a small village and surrounding terraced vineyards and farms. Learn more about the port, wine industry, and history of the area while immersing yourself in the spectacular surroundings and views. Make your way to a modern vineyard for a wine tasting and work up your appetite on the way back for a local lunch in a historic villa with your host. Your knowledgeable guide will serve up home grown and produced honey, olive oil, breads, fruits, produce, and of course, more wine and port. Contact Douro Walks for reservations and more information.
Day 3
Time for a self guided wine tour (designate a driver friends!). Since the walk yesterday included a wine tour, let’s focus on tasting today. The total drive time is about an hour total from Quinta da Padrela and includes 4 stops. You could do this in either direction depending on your preference, but this drive will allow you to see the sights, try some excellent wines and port, and have lunch a Michelin rated restaurant.
Stop 1: Sandeman – Arguably one of the most well known brands, this stop is a no brainer. With breathtaking views, a modern tasting room, and fun, kitschy gift shop, this is the place to kick off your day. It is the furthest drive from Padrela, but worth it with stops dotting the path home. Try a port and tonic and be sure to pick up a white port for your driver to taste at home.
Stop 2: Quinta do Pego . This vineyard transformed into a hotel is perched steep above the Douro River with incredible views and an even more incredible journey to their lobby. There isn’t a tasting room, but the receptionist will bring you wine whilst you sit in the garden adorned with lemon trees.
Stop 3: Time to refuel at Quinta do Tedo. Not only do they offer cheese plates in the tasting room, but there is a Michelin rated restaurant encased in a glass veranda over looking a tributary of the Douro. Spoil yourself with the view and the scrumptious foods.
Stop 4: My personal favorite Quinta do Panascal. The views are absolutely stunning from their quinta balanced on the edge of a cliff. And the ports are delicious and they offer nips of port to buy for easy transport. A wine-win!
Day 4
Time to wrap up your trip with a final tour and tasting paired with lunch. Try Quinto Nova for delicious wines expertly paired with delicious foods. Your tour guide is also super knowledgeable about the history of this 1725 estate, complete with a chapel and of course, vineyard. The Terracu restaurant is also fantastic with working with your dietary restrictions should you have any. Book via link in advance.
In Conclusion
A stop in the Douro Valley is an integral part of any trip to Portugal. You could easily bookend your trip with stops in Lisbon and Port. Or you could even check out some of the seaside towns like Nazare or medieval walled cities like Obidos. Either itinerary you choose, Portugal and the Douro Valley are a perfect destination for food and wine lovers as well as those that love history or a scenic ride.
Also, be sure to check out my recipes inspired by this trip to Portugal. You might think it’s all seafood, but the agriculture is also rich in Portugal. Try my fig jam, caldo verde (kale and sausage soup), arroz de camarao (shrimp and tomato rice), peri peri sauce, and my answer to bacalao, roasted cod with melted tomatoes!
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